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Acacia tree, Jebel Saghro |
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As you head south from Ouarzazate, the Sahara starts to stamp its imprint on the landscape. Olive groves and citrus orchards give way to acacia (pictured) and tamarind trees as the landscape becomes progressively drier and more barren. The backdrop for this picture is the Jebel Saghro, a contorted and largely-desertified range of mountains to the east of the Draa Valley. It's in these mountains that the semi-nomadic Ait Atta tribe spend their winters. In summer they escape the burning heat of the desert, migrating to the cool pastures of the High Atlas Mountains. A chance meeting with one such Ait Atta Berber on a mountainside near Ait Bougmez was the inspiration and the catalyst for a unique trip operated by Epic Morocco. "Walking with Nomads" is a trekking tour through the Jebel Saghro and the High Atlas Mountains, following the migration route of the Ait Atta tribe. More specifically, it's a trip that follows one family in particular, an especially open-minded, welcoming and friendly one, on their journey with children, goats, sheep, dogs, chickens, donkeys, mules and dromadaries over mountain passes, across palm oases and high plateaux from the Saghro into the Atlas. We were delighted to be able to get the trip off the ground, and with such success that The Guardian newspaper featured the tour the first time that it was run. Being Moroccan, the Ait Atta are incredibly hospitable and delighted to have extra company on their migration that takes place twice a year (once in each direction). We have found from experience that they are delighted to look at photographs of visitors' families and general snaps that give clues about their lives back home, and their children (who have precious little with which to occupy themselves under normal circumstances) greatly appreciate the company, especially at meal times! The Jebel Saghro, although unhospitable at first sight is a spectacular range of mountains which offers an excellent degree of variety for the duration of the trek. The first part of the migration, from Hamdor to Boumalne Dades takes place in early May, followed by the second leg, from Boumalne to Ait Bougmez, a week later. The reverse migration, from High Atlas to Saghro takes place in mid-September. The trek includes camping equipment (tents and sleeping mats) and is organised on a fully-serviced, fullboard basis. A portion of the cost of the trip goes to the nomad family and they gain extra revenue by supplying us with all of the pack animals (mules and camels) that we need to transport food and equipment for the duration of the hike. |
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