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Children in Ait Kelaa

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One thing that always strikes visitors about Morocco is the hospitality its inhabitants offer visitors. Whether Arab or Berber, Moroccans always give a warm welcome to outsiders. This can be observed in the country's major towns and cities, where you will be frequently asked to share a cup of tea with relative strangers, and, perhaps more strikingly, in villages like the one pictured, in the remote Jebel Sirwa range. In our extensive exploration of the country we have always experienced nothing but kindness from the Moroccan people - in particular when nightfalls on an unsuccessful recce trip when you end up in the middle of the Atlas Mountains with nowhere to stay! It's always easy to find a place to stay for the night, where people seem happy to help and happy for the novelty of having someone new in the family house. This natural in-bred hospitality is a phenomenon that has risen up through the years from the remote desert outposts of the Sahara, where visitors would often have been desperately in need of food and shelter. It's also a character trait that has some root in religion. Islam is a giving religion and people extend 'giving alms to the poor' to helping those in need, whatever the circumstances. It is particularly nice to experience Moroccan hospitality during Ramadan, the month in the Islamic calendar when Muslims are required to fast during daylight hours. Ramadan is a time of year for spending time with your family and in the evenings great feasts take place in family houses up and down the country. At this time of year we always receive a number fo invitations to break the fast at friends' houses but we've learned from experience that on occasions such as these it's better to fast, ourselves, during the day in order to avoid the embarassment of failing to get through the enormous spreads on offer. Ramadan or no Ramadan, never underestimate the quantity of food that you will be presented with when you dine in a Moroccan home, so it's useful to bear this in mind prior to your arrival. On many occasions we have enthusiastically tucked into a lamb tajine and bread only to be greated moments later with an enormous mountain of couscous and vegetables. As in many countries it's customary to eat as much of it as is physically possible.